How to Plant Onion Bulbs: Step-by-Step Growing Guide

There’s something deeply satisfying about pulling a plump, golden onion from your garden soil—one you nurtured from a tiny bulb into a kitchen-ready essential. Onions rank among the most rewarding vegetables you can grow at home, and the good news is that they’re remarkably beginner-friendly. Whether you dream of sweet Vidalia-style onions for summer sandwiches or pungent storage varieties to last through winter, learning how to plant onion bulbs properly sets the foundation for gardening success.

Growing onions from bulbs (commonly called “sets”) offers significant advantages over starting from seed. These small, dried bulbs provide a substantial head start on the growing season, require minimal fuss, and boast higher success rates than direct-sown seeds. With just a few square feet of garden space, proper timing, and the techniques you’ll discover in this comprehensive guide, you can harvest pounds of homegrown onions that surpass anything you’ll find at the grocery store in both flavor and freshness. Let’s dig into everything you need to know to grow exceptional onions in your own backyard.

Understanding Onion Bulbs and Sets: Your Starting Point for Success

Before you begin planting, it’s essential to understand what onion sets are and why they represent the ideal starting point for most home gardeners. This foundational knowledge helps you make informed decisions that lead to a bountiful harvest.

What exactly are onion sets? Onion sets are small, immature onion bulbs that were grown from seed the previous season, harvested before reaching full maturity, and stored dormant over winter. When you plant these marble-sized bulbs in spring, they resume growing and develop into full-sized onions within 12 to 14 weeks. Think of them as transplants that have already done much of the early growing work for you.

The beauty of onion sets lies in their simplicity and reliability. Unlike seeds, which require precise timing, indoor starting, and careful nurturing for months before transplanting, sets can go directly into the garden as soon as the soil becomes workable in spring. They’re hardy enough to withstand light frosts and begin producing roots almost immediately after planting.

When selecting between seeds, sets, and transplants, consider these key differences:

• Onion Seeds – Most economical but require starting indoors 8-10 weeks before your last frost date. They demand patience and provide the widest variety selection, but germination can be slow and patchy when direct-sown outdoors.

• Onion Sets – Easiest to handle, most forgiving of beginner mistakes, and produce reliable results. They’re available at garden centers, feed stores, and even some grocery stores in early spring. Look for sets approximately ¾ inch in diameter, as larger bulbs tend to bolt (produce flower stalks) prematurely.

• Onion Transplants – Bundles of young seedling plants that offer a middle ground between seeds and sets. They establish quickly but require more careful handling during planting.

For gardeners new to growing onions, sets offer the perfect combination of convenience, affordability, and success rate. One small bulb equals one future onion—it’s genuinely that straightforward.

Choosing the Right Onion Variety for Your Growing Region

Selecting the appropriate onion type for your geographic location represents one of the most critical decisions you’ll make. Onions are photoperiodic plants, meaning they form bulbs in response to day length—the number of daylight hours they receive. Planting the wrong type for your latitude results in disappointingly small bulbs or premature bolting, regardless of how well you care for your plants.

Long-Day Onions: Best for Northern Climates

Long-day onion varieties require 14 to 16 hours of daylight to trigger bulb formation. These onions thrive in northern regions of the United States and Canada, typically between latitudes 37° and 47° north. Because summer days in these areas are extremely long, these varieties have ample time to develop substantial leaf growth before bulbing begins—and more leaves mean larger, more impressive onions.

Popular long-day varieties include:

• Yellow Sweet Spanish – Large, round bulbs with mild flavor
• Walla Walla – Famous sweet onion perfect for fresh eating
• Copra – Excellent storage variety lasting 6+ months
• Red Wethersfield – Flat red bulbs with good keeping quality
• Ailsa Craig – Heirloom variety producing massive 2-pound bulbs

Long-day onions planted in southern regions will begin bulbing too early in the season before developing adequate foliage, resulting in small, disappointing bulbs. This is why matching variety to location matters so significantly.

Short-Day Onions: Ideal for Southern Gardens

Short-day onions initiate bulb formation when daylight reaches just 10 to 12 hours. These varieties grow best in southern states between latitudes 25° and 35° north, where mild winters allow fall planting and spring harvesting. Gardeners in these regions plant short-day onions in autumn, allowing them to grow through winter for early summer harvest.

Recommended short-day varieties include:

• Texas 1015-Y Supersweet – Sweet, mild, and stores reasonably well
• Vidalia/Yellow Granex – The famous Georgia sweet onion
• Red Burgundy – Mild, sweet white interior with red skin
• White Bermuda – Extremely mild, thick flat bulbs
• Stuttgarter – Early maturity with slightly flat yellow bulbs

Planting short-day onions in northern climates causes them to form bulbs prematurely during the short days of late spring, never developing the leaf mass needed for substantial bulb size.

Intermediate or Day-Neutral Onions: The Versatile Choice

Intermediate onions require 12 to 14 hours of daylight for bulbing and grow successfully across a wide geographic range, roughly between latitudes 32° and 42° north. These versatile varieties offer flexibility for gardeners in transitional zones or those uncertain about which type to choose.

Top intermediate varieties include:

• Candy – Golden, thick-fleshed jumbo bulbs that store well
• Red Stockton – Large bulbs with attractive red rings
• Super Star – Large, sweet white onions
• Cimarron – Reliable producer with excellent flavor

When in doubt about your latitude or if you’re purchasing onion sets locally, chances are good that your garden center stocks varieties appropriate for your region.

When to Plant Onion Bulbs: Timing Your Planting for Maximum Success

Proper planting timing significantly influences your onion harvest success. Onions are cool-season crops that tolerate frost well but need adequate growing time before summer heat triggers bulbing. Understanding your local climate and frost dates helps you determine the optimal planting window.

Spring Planting: The Primary Planting Season

For most gardeners, spring represents the main planting window for onion sets. Plant onion bulbs as early as the ground can be worked in spring—typically 2 to 4 weeks before your last expected frost date. Onions are remarkably cold-hardy; established plants tolerate temperatures down to 20°F and handle frost and light freezes without damage.

Follow this general timeline based on your region:

1. Zones 3-5 (Cold Northern Climates) – Plant in late April to mid-May when soil temperature reaches 50°F and heavy freezing has passed.

2. Zones 6-7 (Moderate Climates) – Plant in late March to early April, approximately 4-6 weeks before the last frost date.

3. Zones 8-9 (Mild Southern Climates) – Plant in February through early March, or consider fall planting for overwintering.

The key is getting onion sets in the ground early enough to develop robust leaf growth before lengthening days trigger bulb formation. Every leaf on an onion plant represents one ring in the final bulb—more leaves equal larger onions.

Fall Planting Options for Mild Climates

Gardeners in zones 8 and warmer can plant certain cold-hardy onion varieties in fall, typically about one month before the first expected frost. These onions establish root systems before winter, remain dormant during cold months, then resume vigorous growth in early spring. Fall-planted onions often produce larger bulbs than spring-planted sets because they enjoy a longer growing season.

Important considerations for fall planting:

• Select varieties specifically bred for overwintering, such as ‘Autumn Champion’ or ‘Electric’
• Plant sets 4-6 weeks before your first expected fall frost
• Apply 3-4 inches of mulch after the ground freezes to protect bulbs from heaving
• Remove mulch gradually in spring as growth resumes

Pro Tip: If you purchase onion sets but cannot plant them immediately, store them in a cool, dry location with good air circulation for up to two weeks. Avoid refrigeration, which can induce sprouting, and never store sets in sealed plastic bags where moisture accumulates.

Preparing Your Planting Site: Creating Ideal Growing Conditions

Successful onion growing begins with proper site preparation. Onions have specific requirements for sunlight, soil drainage, and fertility that, when met, produce impressive harvests. Taking time to prepare your planting area correctly prevents many common growing problems.

Sunlight Requirements for Optimal Growth

Onions demand full sun exposure—at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily. The more solar energy your onion plants receive, the larger their bulbs can potentially grow. When selecting your planting location, avoid areas shaded by trees, fences, or taller vegetable plants that might block sunlight during peak growing hours.

Position your onion bed where it won’t be overshadowed by other garden plants as the season progresses. Remember that tomatoes, corn, and other tall summer vegetables can create shade problems for nearby onions if not properly spaced.

Soil Requirements: The Foundation of Success

Onions perform best in loose, well-draining soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Heavy clay soil compacts around developing bulbs, restricting their growth and potentially causing rot. Sandy loam to silt loam soil types provide ideal growing conditions.

Key soil characteristics for onion success:

• Excellent drainage – Onions sitting in waterlogged soil quickly develop rot and fungal diseases
• High organic matter content – Provides nutrients and improves soil structure
• Loose, friable texture – Allows bulbs to expand freely without restriction
• Moderate fertility – Onions are heavy feeders requiring consistent nutrient availability

If your native soil contains heavy clay, consider growing onions in raised beds filled with quality garden soil amended with compost. This approach provides the drainage and loose texture onions require for optimal bulb development.

Amending Your Soil Before Planting

Several weeks before planting, prepare your onion bed by working amendments into the soil. This gives organic matter time to integrate and nutrients time to become available to plant roots.

Follow these soil preparation steps:

1. Test your soil pH – Onions struggle in highly acidic conditions. Apply lime if needed to raise pH toward the neutral range.

2. Incorporate organic matter – Work 2-3 inches of well-aged compost or composted manure into the top 6-8 inches of soil. Avoid fresh manure, which can harbor harmful bacteria and encourage weed growth.

3. Add balanced fertilizer – Apply a complete fertilizer such as 10-10-10 at a rate of 2-3 pounds per 100 square feet before planting. Work it into the top 3-4 inches of soil.

4. Ensure proper drainage – If drainage is poor, create raised rows or mounded beds at least 4-6 inches high to prevent water from pooling around developing bulbs.

Proper soil preparation reduces problems throughout the growing season and sets the stage for healthy, vigorous onion plants capable of producing substantial bulbs.

Step-by-Step Guide to Planting Onion Bulbs

Now that you’ve selected appropriate varieties and prepared your planting site, it’s time to get those onion sets into the ground. This systematic approach ensures proper planting depth, spacing, and technique for maximum success. Each step builds upon the previous one to give your onions the best possible start.

Step 1: Select High-Quality Onion Bulbs

Begin by carefully examining your onion sets before planting. Quality matters significantly—damaged or inferior bulbs produce poor results regardless of your gardening skill.

Look for these characteristics in quality onion sets:

• Size approximately ¾ inch in diameter – Larger sets (over 1 inch) tend to bolt prematurely rather than forming nice bulbs
• Firm texture – Squeeze gently; reject any soft, mushy, or spongy bulbs
• Dry, papery outer skin – Avoid sets with mold, mildew, or unusual discoloration
• No visible damage – Discard sets with cuts, bruises, or signs of pest damage

If possible, purchase onion sets from retailers that allow you to select individual bulbs rather than buying pre-packaged quantities. This lets you choose only the best specimens and avoid paying for inferior bulbs you’ll need to discard.

Regarding green sprouts: Opinions differ about whether to remove green sprouts before planting. Some gardeners snip them off, believing this encourages better root development. Others leave sprouts intact, viewing them as a head start on leafy growth. Both approaches work—experiment to see what produces best results in your garden.

Step 2: Prepare the Planting Trenches or Holes

With your soil properly amended and your sets selected, create planting furrows or individual holes to receive the bulbs.

For row planting (most common method):

Using a garden hoe, dig narrow trenches approximately 1 inch deep. Space rows 12 to 18 inches apart to allow adequate room for cultivation, weeding, and air circulation. Wider spacing (18-24 inches) accommodates mechanical cultivation; closer spacing works for hand-tended beds.

For container or raised bed planting:

If growing onions in pots, select containers at least 10 inches deep with excellent drainage holes. A 12-inch pot accommodates approximately 4 onion bulbs; larger containers can hold proportionally more. Create individual planting holes 1 inch deep and 3-4 inches apart in all directions.

Step 3: Consider Pre-Soaking Your Bulbs (Optional)

Some experienced gardeners soak onion sets before planting to encourage faster sprouting. This step remains optional—dry-planted bulbs typically sprout within 4-7 days in properly prepared soil.

If you choose to soak:

• Place bulbs in room-temperature water or compost tea
• Soak for no longer than 24 hours
• Drain thoroughly before planting to prevent rot
• Plant immediately after draining

Research suggests pre-soaking may reduce time to emergence by a day or two, but overall harvest results remain comparable to dry planting. Consider this technique if you’re planting late in the season and want to accelerate establishment.

Step 4: Position Bulbs at Proper Spacing and Depth

Correct orientation, spacing, and planting depth dramatically influence your success. Improperly planted sets may fail to sprout or produce misshapen bulbs.

Orientation: Place each bulb with the flat (root) end down and pointed tip facing up. The pointed end is where leaves emerge; the flat end develops roots. Upside-down bulbs rarely sprout successfully and represent wasted effort.

Spacing guidelines based on intended use:

• For full-sized bulb onions: Space sets 4-6 inches apart in all directions
• For green onions (scallions): Space sets 2-3 inches apart and harvest when tops reach 6-8 inches tall
• For large onions: Space 6-8 inches apart to allow maximum bulb expansion

Planting depth: Set bulbs so they rest approximately 1 inch below the soil surface, with the pointed tip just barely visible above ground level. Avoid planting deeper than 2 inches, as this restricts bulb development and can encourage stem rot.

Step 5: Cover and Firm the Soil

Once bulbs are positioned correctly, carefully cover them with soil while maintaining proper placement.

Follow this technique for best results:

1. Use one hand to hold each bulb steady in its position
2. With your other hand, gently push soil around and over the bulb
3. Leave the very tip of the pointed end at or just above soil level
4. Firm the soil gently with your palm to eliminate air pockets
5. Avoid compacting soil excessively, which restricts root development

The goal is securing bulbs firmly enough that they won’t shift during watering while maintaining loose soil structure that allows easy root penetration and bulb expansion.

Step 6: Water Thoroughly and Apply Mulch

Immediately after planting, water your onion bed thoroughly to settle soil around the bulbs and initiate the growing process.

Watering technique:

• Use a gentle spray from a watering can with a rose attachment or a hose with a spray nozzle
• Avoid strong water pressure that might dislodge newly planted bulbs
• Soak the soil thoroughly to a depth of several inches
• Drip irrigation systems work excellently for established onion beds

Mulching recommendations:

Apply a light layer (1-2 inches) of organic mulch such as straw, grass clippings (herbicide-free), or shredded leaves over the planting area. Mulch conserves soil moisture, moderates soil temperature, suppresses weed growth, and adds organic matter as it decomposes.

Important: Keep mulch light enough that emerging onion shoots can push through easily. Heavy, matted mulch may smother young sprouts before they reach sunlight.

Caring for Your Growing Onions: Maintenance for Maximum Yields

Once planted, onions require consistent care throughout the growing season. These shallow-rooted plants depend on you to provide adequate moisture, nutrients, and weed control. Proper maintenance during the vegetative growth phase directly influences final bulb size and quality.

Watering Requirements: Consistent Moisture Matters

Onions possess shallow root systems that cannot access moisture deep in the soil profile. This makes consistent, regular watering essential for healthy growth and bulb development.

Follow these watering guidelines:

• Provide 1-2 inches of water per week, including rainfall
• Water deeply rather than frequently to encourage root development
• Maintain consistent soil moisture throughout the growing season—fluctuations cause growth checks and potential splitting
• Reduce watering as bulbs mature and tops begin falling over
• Stop watering entirely about one week before harvest to allow outer skins to dry

Sandy soils require more frequent watering than clay soils because they drain faster and hold less moisture. Monitor soil moisture by feeling several inches below the surface—if it’s dry, water thoroughly.

Pro Tip: Sweeter onions result from consistent, ample watering. If sweet, mild onions are your goal, err on the side of more rather than less water throughout the growing season.

Fertilizing Schedule: Feeding for Big Bulbs

Onions are heavy feeders that require substantial nutrients to produce large, healthy bulbs. The fertilizing strategy changes as plants transition from vegetative growth to bulb formation.

Recommended fertilization schedule:

1. At planting: Incorporate complete fertilizer (10-10-10) into soil as described in soil preparation

2. Every 2-3 weeks during leafy growth: Side-dress with nitrogen-rich fertilizer. Apply 21-0-0 (ammonium sulfate) at ¼ to ½ pound per 25 feet of row, or use organic alternatives like blood meal

3. Stop fertilizing when bulbing begins: Once you notice bulbs starting to enlarge above soil level, discontinue nitrogen applications. Late fertilization delays maturity, produces soft bulbs, and reduces storage quality

Organic fertilizer alternatives:

• Apply bone meal and blood meal combination monthly during active growth
• Side-dress with well-aged compost mid-season
• Water with diluted fish emulsion every 2-3 weeks

Remember: each leaf represents one onion ring. Promoting vigorous leaf growth early in the season directly correlates with larger final bulbs.

Weed Control: Eliminating Competition

Onions compete poorly with weeds due to their shallow roots and upright growth habit. Weeds steal water, nutrients, and sunlight that your onions need for optimal development. Maintaining a weed-free bed is critical for success.

Effective weed management strategies:

• Hand-pull weeds while they’re small and roots haven’t established
• Cultivate shallowly with a hoe, being careful not to damage onion roots within the top 2-3 inches of soil
• Maintain mulch cover to suppress weed seed germination
• Never allow weeds to mature and set seed in your onion patch

Dedicate time to weeding weekly, especially during the first two months when onion plants grow slowly. Once onions establish robust foliage, they shade the soil somewhat and compete more effectively, but vigilance remains important throughout the season.

Common Problems and Solutions: Troubleshooting Your Onion Crop

Even well-tended onion crops occasionally face challenges from pests, diseases, or environmental stress. Recognizing problems early and responding appropriately minimizes damage and preserves your harvest.

Managing Pest Problems

Several insect pests target onions, though their pungent odor naturally repels many common garden insects.

Thrips – These tiny, slender insects hide in leaf folds near where leaves meet the bulb. Feeding damage causes silvery-gray discoloration, twisted leaves, and reduced vigor.

Control measures for thrips:

• Spray plants with a strong stream of water to dislodge thrips
• Apply insecticidal soap following package directions (typically two applications, 3 days apart)
• Use floating row covers to prevent infestation
• Interplant onions with carrots or tomatoes, which may deter thrips

Onion Maggots – White larvae that bore into stems and bulbs, causing yellowing, wilting, and eventual plant death. Adults are small flies that lay eggs at the base of onion plants.

Prevention and control strategies:

• Cover emerging crops with fine mesh netting or row covers immediately after planting
• Practice crop rotation—don’t plant onions where alliums grew the previous two years
• Remove and destroy infected plants promptly
• Avoid excessive organic mulch, which attracts egg-laying flies

Preventing and Managing Diseases

Several fungal and bacterial diseases affect onions, particularly in wet conditions or when plants experience stress.

White Rot – A serious fungal disease causing yellowing, wilting foliage and white, fluffy fungal growth at the bulb base. Once infected, there’s no cure—remove and destroy affected plants (do not compost). Avoid planting alliums in that location for many years, as spores persist in soil indefinitely.

Neck Rot – Fungal disease appearing during storage as soft, watery decay inside bulbs. Prevent by avoiding overcrowding, ensuring good air circulation, and curing bulbs thoroughly before storage. Never store onions that feel soft at the neck.

Pink Root – Fungal disease turning roots pink, eventually killing them and severely reducing yields. Use long crop rotations (4+ years) and consider soil solarization in affected areas.

General disease prevention practices:

• Maintain good air circulation through proper spacing
• Avoid overhead watering that keeps foliage wet
• Harvest during dry weather when possible
• Cure bulbs thoroughly before storage
• Remove and destroy infected plant material promptly

Preventing Bolting: Keeping Onions From Flowering

Bolting occurs when onions prematurely produce flower stalks instead of continuing bulb development. Once an onion bolts, bulb growth stops, and the resulting onion won’t store well.

Factors that trigger bolting:

• Temperature fluctuations – Exposure to cold temperatures (below 40°F) after bulbing begins, or hot temperatures (above 75°F) before bulbing starts
• Oversized sets – Bulbs larger than ¾ inch diameter bolt more readily
• Planting too early – Extended cold exposure triggers reproductive responses
• Stress – Drought, nutrient deficiency, or other stress conditions

Prevention strategies:

• Select appropriately sized sets (approximately ¾ inch)
• Plant at the correct time for your zone
• Mulch to moderate soil temperature fluctuations
• Maintain consistent moisture and fertility
• If flower stalks appear, remove them immediately and harvest those bulbs for immediate use

Harvesting Your Onions: Knowing When and How to Pick

The moment you’ve been working toward finally arrives when your onions signal they’re ready for harvest. Timing and technique matter for both immediate use and long-term storage success.

Signs Your Onions Are Ready

Onions communicate their readiness through visible changes in foliage and bulb development.

Key harvest indicators:

• Tops begin yellowing and falling over – This signals the plant has stopped actively growing
• Necks soften – The area where leaves meet the bulb becomes noticeably softer
• Outer skins become papery – Mature bulbs develop dry, protective outer layers
• Approximately 50-75% of tops have fallen – Don’t wait for 100%; harvest when majority have toppled

Timeline reference:

• Green onions: Ready 3-4 weeks after planting, when tops reach 6-8 inches
• Mature bulb onions: Ready 12-14 weeks after planting sets, typically mid to late summer

Proper Harvesting Technique

Handle onions carefully during harvest—bruised bulbs are susceptible to rot and won’t store well.

Step-by-step harvesting process:

1. Stop watering 7-10 days before planned harvest to begin drying
2. Loosen soil around bulbs gently with a garden fork or spading fork
3. Lift bulbs by grasping near the base of the leaves and pulling steadily
4. Shake off loose soil but don’t wash bulbs
5. Lay harvested onions on dry ground in the garden for 1-2 days if weather permits (protect from rain)
6. Move to curing location if rain threatens or for longer drying

Important: Never pull onions by yanking the tops—you may damage the neck, creating entry points for disease. Always loosen soil first and lift gently.

Curing and Storing Onions: Preserving Your Harvest

Proper curing transforms freshly harvested onions into shelf-stable pantry staples that last for months. This critical step dries the neck tissue completely, sealing out bacteria and extending storage life dramatically.

The Curing Process

Curing requires warm, dry conditions with good air circulation for 2-4 weeks.

Ideal curing conditions:

• Temperature: 75-85°F
• Humidity: 65-70% (relatively dry)
• Location: Covered area protected from rain and direct sun (garage, barn, covered porch)
• Airflow: Good ventilation essential

Curing procedure:

1. Spread onions in single layer on wire racks, screens, or newspaper
2. Keep tops attached during curing—they protect bulbs from sunburn and help seal the neck
3. Turn occasionally to ensure even drying
4. Check progress after 2 weeks—necks should feel completely dry and papery
5. Test readiness by pressing near the stem; the entire onion should feel solid without soft spots
6. Trim once fully cured—cut stems to ½-1 inch above bulb and trim roots closely

Signs of proper curing:

• Outer skins rustle when touched
• Necks completely dry and tight
• Roots dry and brittle
• No soft spots anywhere on bulb

Long-Term Storage Conditions

Properly cured onions store for months under correct conditions, providing homegrown flavor well into winter.

Optimal storage requirements:

• Temperature: 32-40°F (cold but not freezing)
• Humidity: 65-70% (low humidity)
• Darkness: Store away from light, which encourages sprouting
• Air circulation: Never seal in airtight containers

Storage methods:

• Mesh bags or pantyhose: Allow excellent air circulation; hang in cool, dry location
• Braiding: Traditional method for onions with intact stems; decorative and functional
• Single-layer boxes: Spread onions in ventilated boxes; don’t stack more than 2 layers
• Individual wrapping: Wrap in newspaper or paper towels for refrigerator storage (sweet varieties)

Storage tips:

• Check stored onions monthly; remove any showing softness or sprouting
• Use sweet, mild varieties first—they don’t store as long as pungent types
• Never store onions with apples, pears, or potatoes (ethylene gas causes spoilage and sprouting)
• Pungent, thick-skinned varieties store longest (often 6+ months)

Final Thoughts: Your Journey to Homegrown Onion Success

Growing onions from bulbs represents one of gardening’s most accessible and rewarding endeavors. With minimal space, basic equipment, and the knowledge you’ve gained from this guide, you possess everything needed to produce an impressive onion harvest that will enhance your cooking for months to come.

Remember these key takeaways for success:

• Choose the right variety for your latitude—long-day for northern gardens, short-day for southern regions, intermediate for areas in between
• Plant early when soil becomes workable, 2-4 weeks before your last expected frost
• Prepare soil properly with organic matter and ensure excellent drainage
• Plant sets 1 inch deep, pointed end up, spaced 4-6 inches apart
• Maintain consistent moisture and fertility throughout the growing season
• Keep beds weed-free to eliminate competition
• Harvest when tops fall over and cure thoroughly for long-term storage

The satisfaction of braiding your own onions, hanging them in your kitchen, and reaching for homegrown flavor whenever a recipe calls for it cannot be overstated. There’s magic in knowing exactly where your food comes from and pride in having grown it yourself.

So gather your supplies, mark your calendar for planting day, and prepare to join the ranks of successful onion gardeners everywhere. Your future self—standing in the garden with dirt under your fingernails and beautiful onions in your hands—will thank you for taking this first step. Happy planting!